How to install ic pot lights in attic

In homes that have attic access, installing these light fixtures is a snap. In this guide, we will discuss a typical recessed light installation in homes with attic access. Before talking about the installation process, it is useful to understand the components of the light fixture itself and the types of fixtures, allowing the homeowner to choose the right type for a specific application. Recessed lighting fixtures are comprised of two primary components, the housing itself and the trim.

The housing is the cylindrical portion that fits into the ceiling and contains the electrical junction box and the socket for the light bulb. The trim fits into the housing to provide a finished appearance once the installation is complete. Trims can be ribbed or equipped with reflectors to spread the light out.

Of the many types of housings, they are generally divided into two major categories. These are remodel housings and new construction housings. Each receives support in a different way. Remodel housings have metal clips that contact the upper surface of the ceiling drywall or panel, holding the fixture into place. New construction housings, on the other hand, are affixed to the ceiling joists with screws or nails, resulting in a solid, stable connection and superior support.

It is this type of housing that is used when attic access is available. It is important to remember that if ceiling insulation is present, it is required by most electrical codes that the fixture is IC rated, or rated for direct contact with insulation. If non-IC rated housings are chosen, a costly and cumbersome shield must be built or purchased to keep the insulation from touching the hot light fixture.

Having access to the attic space makes installation of recessed lighting much more straightforward. Unscrew the the light bulb from a canister before you insulate and look inside the canister. The letters "IC" are verification that the fixture is rated for insulation contact. You may also see the words "Air Tight. Cover the holes on the sides of the canister by stuffing loose fill or batt insulation between the canister and the ceiling joists if it isn't an airtight fixture.

The holes allow you to adjust the bulb height, but they also allow air to pass. Seal the holes with caulk if the model is airtight.

Continue stuffing insulation around the canister to completely close the gap between it and the ceiling drywall. By choosing I Accept , you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. By Scott Caron. Pinterest Email Pocket Flipboard. Guinta, Patchogue, NY Answer: While LEDs run much cooler than incandescents, their electronic components and external heat sinks do get quite hot; you would still need to keep the insulation away from your fixtures.

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